Glass or graphite

[thedude]

Glass: (in no particular order)
Wright & McGill - Skeet Reese series or Rick Clunn Series
St. Croix Mojo Glass Cranking
Dobyns Champion series Glass
Powell Diesel & Max series
Lamiglass - lots of different models, certified pro and excel are worth looking at
Phenix - glass cranking series

i like the lamiglass blanks, but phenix has a great reputation for making awesome rods. i would like to give their glass sticks a try. The powells and dobyns have great followings as well.

Every other rod manufacturer makes a graphite cranking - rod i think they all suck for cranking but i'd check out castaway, shimano, loomis

[BIGSHOW]

I've heard some good stuff on the dobyns. You a graphite guy thedude? I saw the Mojo's, but didn't see the glass ones. I may keep my eye on the boards that  way I can get rid of it if I don't like it. There also not bad about returns at most stores.

[thedude]

no - i haven't liked the graphite rods i've tried. especially when it comes to DD baits.

[Mojo]

Nice Post The dude !! 

[bigjc]

Thanks for the input MOJO. I was at cabelas today and didn't see alot of glass rods. I was wondering what some other people use (brands). The way it sounds BPS has more. I'll also check the bbc boards

HANDS DOWN...KISTLER!!!

[Manxfishing]

I'm with you John
I'm 100% Kistler on the boat these days with no regrets

Kistler was running the Med. 6-6" Glass/composite Mag. for 99 bucks
I bought one over the summer and haven't used it to much, but it does have a soft tip with allot of backbone. And I could feel every thing

[jdg279]

I have been using a KVD 7'4" Medium action cranking rod for the last year.  I do not throw deep cranks much, but the key to getting them down deep ticking the bottom is LONG CASTS.  The composite glass/graphite mix rod will allow you to make longer casts.  It all depends what you are using it for.  Shallow squarebills and deep cranks require different rods, so there is no "Crankbait" rod that can do it all perfectly.  I also think of it like this:  with cranks, you want at least one form of a "safety net" so to speak to prevent fish shaking free with treble hooks.  Glass rods are one form.  So is monofilament line.  Since both add shock absorption but reduce your sensitivity, pick one.  That is, use a composite glass rod if you use fluro, but if you use mono, use graphite.  I think glass/mono together feel too mushy and graphite/fluoro doesnt have enough forgiveness in my opinion for deep cranks.  Just my 2 cents.

[VinceR]

Glass for me. I've been using glass since the first David Fritts Cranking Rods. These were the ones that were made by Browning. I had two of the original Browning versions, a 6' and a 6'6". I loved the parabolic action of glass. Only slightly heavier than graphit, not a noticeable difference. Certainly not a deal breaker.

I used them until Bass Pro introduced their first Cranking Rod. This one was a fiberglass 7' model. I liked it almost a s much as the Brownings. I tried a newer version of the CrankinStick when they switched to glass/ graphite comp, and didn't like that one as well as the all glass model.

My new hotness is the American Rodsmith version of the glass Fritts Cranking model. It appears to be an almost perfect copy of the original Browning/Lews models. Maybe using updated materials in the reel seat, but the rod blank looks almost identical, right down to the wrap on the guides. This series has also been discontinued (for now).

I have this model in 7' Med/Heavy, with a 7:1 reel (for lipless and smaller cranks), and a 7'11" with a 5:1 reel for DD22 (and other BIG/deep baits).

Oh, and I still have my BP original CrankinStick that I used for buzzbaits and smaller topwaters like a Sammy 100.

[BIGSHOW]

From talking to people here and other places thats what seems to be the answer. A well balanced mix of rod and line to get the fish in the boat.

[Mojo]

It all depends what you are using it for.  Shallow squarebills and deep cranks require different rods, so there is no "Crankbait" rod that can do it all perfectly.  I also think of it like this:  with cranks, you want at least one form of a "safety net" so to speak to prevent fish shaking free with treble hooks.  Glass rods are one form.  So is monofilament line.  Since both add shock absorption but reduce your sensitivity, pick one.  That is, use a composite glass rod if you use fluro, but if you use mono, use graphite.  I think glass/mono together feel too mushy and graphite/fluoro doesnt have enough forgiveness in my opinion for deep cranks.  Just my 2 cents.

Dude - I take that back ........ jdg279 ....... Now that is some great input. I will be putting that to use (once I get some ceramics back in my eyes and get my 100% warranties snapped rods replaced)... Ward has been rather hard on my Rods and the Beaver .....

[bigjc]

Kistler was running the Med. 6-6" Glass/composite Mag. for 99 bucks
I bought one over the summer and haven't used it to much, but it does have a soft tip with allot of backbone. And I could feel every thing

I have that rod also and it is my fav. crankin rod. 

[BrianB]

Check out GRANDT RODS I have been using his glass rods for a long time. Have found that my hooks ups are better and they stay on.

[YpsiBass]

Admittedly I only skimmed the replies, but I didn't see anyone mention the action you'd be looking for in a rod.  Whether it be glass or graphite, I think you'll want a moderate fast action rod.  There's quite a few graphite rods that have that action which will have the give of a glass rod with the lightness/strength of graphite.  I have a Powell rod with a mod fast action that I picked up in June that I really liked for crankbaits this year.

[djkimmel]

Some variation of moderate is pretty popular for crankbaits rods. There are some exceptions and people farther South tend to use more heavier action rods than up North averaging out all the comments I've seen on this topic over the years.