Glass Rods -Vs- Your average Graphite stick

[LAPORTE]

Good Afternoon All

         I would like to start cranking but after watching the world's greatest fishing show. I ask all of you and your great wisdom. What do you think the biggest difference is between a std. 7' MH  Shimmano and a Glass rod from say Powell rod co. I have only been fishing for 3 years is there something I'm missing out on here ....Zona I think was throwing a half and half rod ...


Don L

[t-bone]

I bought that quantum KVD cranking rod for the upcoming season to use. It is an interesting rod and is specific for cranking. The nice thing is it isn't out of control in terms of price given the features. It is $150ish.

link removed

It is a combo rod of graphite and glass. Has a split handle. The only thing that will take a bit of getting used to is the diameter of the rod towards the base is big. Almost looks like a pool cue but it's light and I like the feel.

Might be an option.

[Cheetam]

To generalize the differences, graphite is lighter and more sensitive.  Fiberglass is heavier, less sensitive and more "forgiving".  That being said, personally, I think a rod's action is more important than what it is made of.  I have had cranking rods made of fiberglass, and rods made with graphite, and honestly, if you get something with a moderate action, it will be a good cranking rod (although I prefer something with more of a moderate/fast action for traps).  I could argue that my MM 7' St. Croix Avid Cranking rod is just as "forgiving" as a 7'0 MM St. Croix Pro Glass rod when fighting a fish, but can also argue that the Glass rebounds slower than the graphite when casting.  As for "blended" rods, I can't really comment, I haven't used one.

[thedude]

most factory crankbait rods are composite blanks made up of a mix of fiberglass and graphite. All rods have fiberglass in them to a certain degree, the lower the modulus the higher fiberglass content. The uber-high modulus rods may be close to if not zero.
Its kind of a con really, we pay top dollar for "high modulus" graphite rods and then they rename the low modulus stuff "composite" and charge just as much because its a "cranking blank"

thats said - composite rods will be more sensitive because of the graphite content when compared to cheap 100% E-glass rod. S-glass rods on the other hand are a higher quality and 100% glass. The thing that makes a good cranking stick is a moderate-slow action. Allowing the rod to bend deep into the mid section. This absorbs a lot of the shock and strain when fishing a bait with treble hooks and will save you from lost fish. i have a higher end s-glass that i love, i also have some composites that are great, lightweight and sensitive...

[Cy]

I throw cranks regularly everywhere I go.  I will always have at least 2 or 3 tied on.  I only use graphite rods for my cranks.  I am a big fan of the G Loomis crank bait rods.  I know they are pricey but they are worth it!  I think a quality graphite crank bait rod is the best of the both worlds.  You get the sensitivity of graphite and the bend and flexibility that fiberglass has.  I have tried one of the BPS Crankin' Sticks after using a Loomis and I fished it once and sold it.  I don't know if that is a graphite/glass combo or just a POS but I hated it.

I would be willing to check out any other crank bait rod.  Most rod companies make a dedicated cranking rod these days, Powell, Shimano and several others.

T-bone, I will curious your opinion on that Quantum.

What is everyone else using for cranks?

Cy

[thedude]

cy - the older bps crankin sticks are e-glass which is lowgrade stuff. i have  MH one i use for DD22s serves its purpose i guess

[TCook]

I been using the G Loomis CBR845C and love it. The next rod I will be adding to the arsenal is the G Loomis CBR903C for long casts with deeper diving cranks to get in the strike zone longer. Its a medium rod with mod-fast action which should be similar to a glass rod when it comes to staying hooked up, but more sensative as Cy said.

[Got Fish??]

   Fighting a fish on a glass rod is a riot. there is nothing better than watching the pole bend and whip around. But for finding fish graphite is my choice hands down . You can feel the fish better, and you can feel the bottom, rocks,wood,sand ,hard or soft. If you ask me . I think you should have both!

[Got Fish??]

 Oh and by the way, what do you mean by average graphite? When I was a kid Glass rods were a stapel. We did not have the tech. that we have to day. It's funny how history repets it's self.

[Lightningboy]

Well, here's my .02. 

When I decided to learn cranks I did a whole winter of research on rods and line.  Along with what I know from rodbuilding, I've learned a great deal on cranking sticks.

The glass vs. graphite debate can go on forever, but more important is the construction and flex of the blank.  Good S-glass with minimal scrim makes a fine rod that's fairly sensitive, more than a cheap graphite blank that's heavy on the epoxy.  The blank needs the right mixture of power in the butt, and flex along the blank.  How deep the flex should go is debateable, but most like a moderate flex for cranking.  Please note that has nothing to do with power; a MH & ML can have exactly the same flex.

The flex allows the rod to work as a shock absorber during the fight.  Cranks have little hooks that can tear out easily.  When a bass surges the blank flexes to reduce the stress.  I think this is why a lot of good cranking rods get a bad rep; you've got to let the rod fight the fish.

When I fight a bass on a crank the butt end is tucked between my elbow and hip.  The reel is palmed with my hand near my thigh so it can rest against it when I want to.  I keep my knees flexed, hold the rod still, and bring the fish in.  Don't fight the bass, let the rod flex fight for you.

Something else to consider is line.  Most guys opt for a thin, low stretch mono.  Since the line stretches during the fight, stretchy mono on a slow action rod can feel like a rubber band.  If you're worried about sensitivity, crank with fluoro or braid.

Here's what I throw with:

Custom on a Seeker BS706 blank.  An absolutely great S-glass rod that throws traps, medium & deep divers.  You wouldn't know it was glass except for the fat blank.

Custom on a Seeker BS704 blank.  Throws from 1/4-3/4 oz very well, in fact suprisingly well with light baits.  My main crank & trap rod.  A little overpowered with a DD22.

All star E844P Mod/Fast ML.  Actually a popping rod.  It feels very light and limber, I'll bet a little too much for some.  Throws smaller cranks & traps well.  But probably my best fish fighter. 

I've also thrown a Loomis CB845, and one of the new Lamiglass Skeet Reese series.  (sorry, can't remember the model)  The Loomis is a very popular cranking rod, light & sensitive with good flex but not too much.  Probably the "standard" for all around cranking.  The Lamiglass flexed further down the blank, but didn't feel like it lacked power.  I might build on one in the future.

Something I suggest to anyone just getting into cranks is a BP Crankin' stick.  It's got a huge cult following.  Good flex, low profile alconites to keep it light.  Plus they go on sale right now every year.  If you keep your eyes on the sales you can pick one up for under $40.  Go fish it with varying cranks for a season, and you'll know what you're looking for when you do upgrade.  They do run a little on the light side, so a MH is closer to a M.

Sorry I ran on here, but you'll hear a lot of varying opinions on cranking rods.  I think your best bet is to try a popular standard with the baits you like and then specialize.

[cr]

I bought a Lamiglass 7' XCF e-glass rod last year and the main knock I have against it is it seems a lot harder to rip the lure out of the weeds and when it comes to smallmouths I have lost several 5lber's on it and pretty much had given up on it . After reading the thread I wonder now if maybe I wasn't loading the rod enough . I think my G-Loomis works better .

[thedude]

Custom on a Seeker BS706 blank.  An absolutely great S-glass rod that throws traps, medium & deep divers.  You wouldn't know it was glass except for the fat blank.

i use the seeker bc706.. which is pretty much the same and you're right, its an awesome blank. i'd like it a step up for dd22s, but it'll do. Perfect for a dt16 and traps though. (Hint: its a great buzzbait blank too!) I run 20lb power pro on this setup.

[smbassman]

The biggest difference between Graphite and Fiberglass is the snap back on the initial bite.  When a fishing rod is bent, energy is stored in the bent rod.  Graphite releases that energy much faster than fiberglass when the rod is released, so the graphite snaps back while the glass is more gentle.  Therefore the glass rods help prevent the hooks from ripping out before they get a good hold.

I don't mind the BPS crankin stick personally and I have seen a lot of pros use them also.  I don't think I will ever try a G loomis, but for the money I sure hope they are a whole lot better than a $40 crankin stick.  I have a couple crankin sticks for most crankbait fishing, but definitely stick to 100% graphite when ripping through the weeds.

[Lightningboy]

A lot of guys have had the same experience with cranks & especially traps in the weeds.  The two best options I've heard of and used myself are to move to a slightly stiffer rod, or keep the soft rod and use braid.

The braid cuts weeds very well too.

[MadWags]

Grandt Rods offers a wide assortment of both E-Glass and Graphite rods designed for use with crankbaits. You might want to consider supporting a US manufactured product that supports Greatlakesbass.com. If you have any questions about Grandt Rods feel free to contact me. I would be happy to let you use some of my Grandt Rods before you purchase.
I have both Graphite and E-Glass cranking sticks. I use the Graphite for traps and smaller cranks and the E-Glass 7' MH action for DD cranks and swimbaits.
Dan Kimmel also uses a Grandt Rods Cranking Stick in Graphite and picked up another in a 7'6" XLH70 blank at the Novi Show. Contact me for any GLB discounts or check the Grandt Rods forum on this site for more information.

[BryanP]

I agree with a lot of the guys here on the G.Loomis crankin rods.  Definitely the best out there IMO.  THe CBR 845 is a great all around choice, and I've kept at least 3 in my boat for the last 8-9 years.  Mid-summer this past year I got a hold of a couple of the new CBR 855 GLX pretty much used them from then on.  They have the flexibility for fighting fish, but they're also crisp enough to be able to rip a bait out of grass, or even clean a bait that has a piece of grass on it just by snapping it.  You can't do that with a glass rod.  I've tried most of them including the Seeker blanks.

And believe it or not, your crankbait reacts differently when using a graphite rod over glass.  I learned a lot about what a graphite cranking rod and fluorocarbon can do while fishing with Chip Harrison on St Clair last summer! 

[Hooksetter]

I have a pair of G. Loomis crankbait rods, one M and one MH. Both have mod-fast actions. I wouldn't trade them for any other crankin rods, glass or otherwise. In fact, I have never used a glass crankin rod, or any other crankin rod, so I have nothing to compare them to. Glass or composite rods might be as good or better but I can't say. Before I bought the crankin rods I was using my IMX casting rods because that is all I had. I was a little slow to jump on the technique specific band wagon

I will say that my catch rate on crankbaits improved quite a bit when I started using actual crankbait rods

Willie

[Waterfoul]

What's a crankbait?   

I have a BPS Crankin Stick that I picked up 3 years ago.  I like it for DD10's and such.  I throw traps with it too... though it's probably not the best choice.  But like I said...

What's a crankbait??