Hydrofoils

[Big dreams]

Has anyone had any experience with hydrofoils?  My TR20 has a terrible hole shot and the porpoise is equally bad.  I can't fill the gas tank past 1/3 due to the lack of hole shot.  From the sounds of it, the SE Sport HP should eliminate these issues.  I already don't like the looks of this but if it helps the performance, I think it would be worth the $60.

Any thoughts?

[markgoetsch]

I'd try a different prop.

[djkimmel]

Remind us again what outboard and HP you have on the boat?

[Big dreams]

I've got a TR20 with a 200 Merc. EFI and a 25p 4 blade ss Tempest I believe.  Last year I was only able to get up to 62 by myself.  At 62 mph, the rpm's were right around 58-6000.  The prop does have four black plastic plugs in it.  I have heard those are for increasing performance.  All I can say is a 12 foot jon boat could beat me in a short race.  Plus the porpoise is rediculous when I begin slowing down to around 35 or so.

[Lightningboy]

Should be a trophy if it's a four blade.  The black plugs are PVC plugs that allow ventilation of the prop to help your holeshot.  The system is designed to allow a little of the exhaust gas to blow out the plugs when you take off, allowing the motor to rev up a few more RPM and help launch you. 

I'm gonna assume there aren't any holes in the plugs.  Get a second set of plugs, a cordless drill, and an assortment of drill bits, and head for the lake.  Start with a 1/8 inch bit, and put a hole in two (opposing) plugs.  The go try a take off.  The motor should wind up a few more RPM on take off. 

Not enough?  Then put the same size hole in the other two plugs.  Try again.  Not enough yet?  Try the next bigger drill bit.  Keep enlarging the holes in the plugs one size at a time, until you reach the point where holeshot doesn't increase any more.  Then put the new plugs in with the largest hole that got you the best holeshot.

Congrats, you just tuned your prop for the best holeshot possible with your rig.

The porpoising should be able to be solved by trimming down at lower speeds.

You running a jackplate?  Sixty two sounds a little slow for that rig; about six inches of setback would allow that motor to get some leverage on the boat, and you could fine tune motor height.

[markgoetsch]

Yeah with all four plugs in I can see why your hole shot sucks.  I'd do what lighting said or just take two of them out.  I run a TR196 with a 200 opti I also use a 25p trophy plus I have two plugs in with med. holes.  Also if you are "blowing out"  while dropping down to get on pad purchase the $12 prop seal ring.  It made all the differance in my boat.

[Waterfoul]

Set up Set up Set up.  It's all in the set up.  Does your boat have a jackplate?  That 4 blade prop should pop you up on plane with ease.  Do what the others said with the plugs.  If you have a jack plate you should start with the prop shaft about 3" below the pad and run it.  Watch your water pressure.  Never let it go below about 10 psi while at wide open throttle.  Work the motor up about 1/8" at a time using the jack plate.  Most Tritons run best between 2.5" and 3" below the pad.   I have a 150 Merc on a TR18 with a 6" jackplate set at 2.5" below the transom and I get a decent hole shot with my 3 blade and can run right with your 62 mph most days.  You're boat should be 4-6 mph faster than mine, when set up correctly.

[Big dreams]

Should be a trophy if it's a four blade. 

You are correct.  The prop is a Trophy.  I have never played with those plugs before.  Do they pop out or screw.  I can check tonight when I get home.  As soon as I get the fuse that is stopping my trim from working tracked down, I will take it out for a run and start recording numbers.  I hope to have that issue tracked down tonight so I can take it out for a test drive Tomorrow.

[markgoetsch]

they pop out with a needle nose or standard screw driver.

[Lightningboy]

Pop the cowling, the fuse should be on the starboard side of the powerhead.  If the fuse is good, could be the trim relays.

The plugs make all the difference in the world.  When I hit the pedal, I wind up to around 2500-3000 RPM for a moment & then the prop bites.

Like markgoetsch suggested, easy place to start experimenting is to just pop two out.  My 25 trophy summer prop has two in, two out.  But my custom 27 trophy has all four in with 1/4 holes in each.  Each has great holeshot.

It's all a good excuse to burn gas...

[Big dreams]

You were right on with that fuse under the cowl!  Put a new 5 amp in and everything works like new.  I misplaced my wire strippers so I have to hold off to install the two new sonar units.  Any ideas if I should hook them up to the Acc switch or the main Power switch?  I was thinking Acc so I don't have to have them on all of the time.

If I can get them installed tomorrow, I hope to take it for a spin with two of those vent plugs out to see how the hole shot corresponds.  Also need to check the measurements on the jack plate to see where I stand.  My guess from what you all are saying is it isn't at the 2.5-3" below pad mark.  Should be interesting.  I am excited to try this out.  Thanks for all of your insight on this.

[Waterfoul]

Put the graphs on their own circuit.  Nothing that runs thru the ignition (in other words you don't want the key to have anything to do with your graphs).  I ran a completely isolated set of wires to the dash and have both my graphs wired to that via a buss bar.  No "noise" from the motor, and if anything goes wrong I can trace the issue very quickly.

[Lightningboy]

Waterfoul is right on the money.  Keep the graphs on their own circuit.  I have a busbar in the bilge that divies up the power to the separate circuits.  All sonar is on it's own to help reduce interference. 

At the very least, power the sonar system with a direct wire to the battery.  And while you're at it, replace those wing nuts on the battery with lock nuts.   

When you take her for a test run, make sure you're warmed up good.  Trim in tight, and nail it;  count the seconds to 30 MPH.  Make sure to try a few test runs.

Also, measure the distance from prop shaft to pad with the motor level for a starting place.

BTW- you didn't say if you had a jackplate.  The more info you can provide about your set up the more we can help.

Later

[Big dreams]

I have the graphs hooked up on their own circuit and everything is working except for the LSS1.  I know I don't have the "yellow" wire hooked up to the ACC switch so that is what I have read is causing the issue there. 

I do have a jack plate.  I thought there was some sort of measuring stamped on it to tell where abouts it is however, I am not able to locate that measurement now.  It is a manual jackplate.  I am assuming since it tops at 62 I will need to bring the motor up slowly?