Lowrance Instillation.

[dhuff]

I picked up a LMS-520c for the console (side of dash not in the dash) I was flipping through the manual for the instal and it showed the wiring diagrams but I am a little unsure on what is going on.  It has a connector going to the unit with three wires coming out of it.  It shows the NMEA 2000 Power cable being ran to the battery with an inline fuse and a mandatory network power off switch.  Is that Power off switch something I have to buy and add?  The second wire is a Display Unit power Cable with an inline fuse going to the batter and this wire says Recommended display power-off switch.  What is the switch for?  Seems like there are alot of additional switches to add.  The third wire says Data Cable and it dosn't show it going to anything do those four little wires just get capped off.  Right now I am only running one Lowrance graph and the GPS puck not trying to hook two units up.  Just want to make sure I am all clear on this before I take the time to epoxy the transducer in the boat and run all wires then find out I missed something.  Some ideas, pictures or drawings  will help.  Thanks.

[Cy]

D,

I understand your confusion.  I have installed several Lowrance units and I looked up the installation manual on the 520C you just bought.  If you are installing into a bass boat then the switch or switches are already there.  All you have to do is add an in line fuse to the "hot" wire on the display power and one on the NMEA "hot" wire, if you are using the GPS option you NEED the NMEA powered, add those hot wires to either the main power switch or the accessory power switch.  There is no reason both hot wires can't be on the same switch.  If your boat doesn't have a current switch panel then you can just add a simple 12v or any low amp switch to the hot side or ground side of the sonar unit.  Most things in a 12v system are hot side switched but you can put a switch on the ground wires it will cut power to the unit.  Then add the blacks and shield wires to the grounding block and you are done.  I couldn't think of a good way to add a drawing but if you are still struggling I can find a way to add one.

Cy

[smbassman]

The display power can be run directly to the battery to prevent any interference, just use an in line fuse close to the battery.  When the unit is turned off, it will not draw current and drain your battery so no external switch is needed.

For the network power, you should hook it up to a switch like an Accessory switch(your boat probably already has one).  If you don't have a shut off switch, the network sensors (gps, fuel, temp etc.) will continue to pull a small current that will drain your battery. 

[dhuff]

Ok that makes it more clear.  I was a little confused because I was thinkging what you said but the manual says they recommend it.  Therefore, I was thinking I needed to use two acessory switches for one unit.  Thanks.

[MBell]

Make sure you set yourself up to reinstall the transducer, if you run any kind of rough water it will get knocked loose soon enough.
-Matt

[smbassman]

Use some 60 or 80 grit sandpaper on the glass and the transducer puck face, along with a slow cure epoxy and it will take a jack hammer (or at least a hammer and chisel) to knock it free.  Remember to fold (cooking term) the resin and hardner together to make sure there are no air bubbles from aggressive stirring.

Another tip is to use playdough (rolled in your hand into a long strip) to build a dam around the transducer and fill it with epoxy.  Keep a weight on the transducer until epoxy cures.

[dhuff]

Yeah I was going to use some Plumber's putty to make a dam around the transducer.  Now comes the hard part taking everything out to access the bilge area.  I have the pump for the jackplate batteries and whatever else gets in the way.  Should be fun.  I just don't want to mount it to the transom.

[REEL_MAN]

While your standing on your head installing the transducer don't forget remove any debris that somehow migrates to the bilge. It's a good time to inspect the hoses,bilge pumps and the live well pumps. If you have the cartridge style pumps it's easy to open them and make sure there isn't any line wrapped around the impellars or if the impeller binds.
Good luck on the installation, don't get to dizzy

REEL MAN

[dhuff]

I will try not to.  I am going to install the Lowrance this weekend so we will see how it goes.  My buddy already has alot of it taken apart for me.  He already took out all battereis and reservoir for the jackplate and stuff and has been cleaning the area to make it look nice.  He is a clean freak.  It should be a failry easy process now that I got all the wiring figured out and figured I can use one of the two ACC. switches on my console.  Then I can just pull a line thru when I pull out the old transducer cable and use it to pull the new transducer cable to the console.  So we will see how it all goes. 

[Cy]

D,

You might find it handy to have an electrical "fish tape" on hand for this weekends project.  You can't borrow one you should be able to get one from a home store for around $20.00 or so.

Cy

[1javelin]

Okay, plan on installing an Eagle this week sometime, and have no idea what all this computer talk means.  Anyone have an english version, or is this as English as it gets??

[Cy]

I think that is about a English as it gets.  Do you have a question on anything in particular?   

Cy