Few Electronics Questions

[Northern Bass Bum]

Well, I figured it's time I learn to use that $200 piece of technology on my boat called a "depthfinder". Problem is exactly that though - the use itself. 

First off, grayline. What percentage do you set this at? On my Fish Mark 480, I pulled over a cement slab (boat ramp) and adjusted it until the bottom looked gray on my screen, as Eagle says a hard item should. But, how gray should the gray be? As I fished that day, I noticed I marked weeds as even gray. They're not hard, so shouldn't they be black, like the fish arches?

Next, depth range. I read on numerous resources that you should set upper and lower limits to maximize you viewing area. Fro example, if you are working a 30' hump in 45' of water, you should set your lower limit at 50' and you upper limit at 25'. I know how to select a depth range, but only a lower depth range, such as 10', 20', 30', 40', etc. How do I select upper and lower limits on my sonar (Eagle Fish Mark 480)?

Any other info you could give would also help.

Thanks,

-NBB 

[Waterfoul]

I always leave my depth range on auto.

I've got color units so I can't help you with the grayscale.

[MBell]

Best piece of advice I can give you is to get a good color unit.  I have an x85 on the bow and a 334c on the dash.  You'll see me fishing out of the back of the boat most of the time in deep water.  The new ones are just so much more accurate, I've caught so many fish this year that my front unit didn't even pick up.
-Matt

[Revtro]

I found on my monochrome units that sensitivity seems to play a bigger role than gray line.  Once you get used to interpreting the sonar image, whether it's dark gray or light gray isn't as important as adjusting your sensitivity to show you good sonar returns.  But with turning the sensitivity up comes some false readings.  You really can't avoid it.

I have been in 12 FOW where I could see the bottom perfectly.  The sonar showed something on the screen and when I looked in to the water, I saw nothing.  But if you turn the sensitivity down, you'll miss things.  So it's a touchy thing and requires that you get good at interpreting whether or not you're seeing a real return or not.  Over time, I'm starting to be able to tell the difference between clutter and real returns.  I'd suggest starting with a higher sensitivity because you'd rather see some false images than miss real objects.  And I'd avoid turning the clutter reduction and noise reduction up too much.  That'll also cause you to miss things.

For the most part, it's easier to leave your depth ranges on auto if the area you're in has dramatic depth change.  But when it's fairly consistent, you'll probably be better served zooming in to the bottom to see things more clearly down there.  For instance, if I'm fishing in 30 FOW, I may just zoom in to the bottom 10 Ft. because that's where the catchable fish are and that's what I want to see in higher detail.  I don't really ever bother with setting upper and lower limits because its a real hassle to constantly have to adjust them all day long when you move out deeper or vice versa.

Your 480 should allow you to easily zoom in and out.  I'd leave the range on auto and just zoom in and out when you need to.  Yeah, getting a color unit would be awesome, but if you're like me, you probably can't afford to go out and just buy another unit.  But you can see things just as well with a monochrome unit if you learn how to interpret the picture.  The 480 is a good unit.  Just don't depend on it to always show you fish.  They don't always look like the perfect little arches you see in the demos.  And a color unit will be the same.  You still have to learn to understand the image.

[Northern Bass Bum]

Tom,

Thanks for the novel, man!

I went out again today and reset all my options, just so I could reset them and know what I was setting where and why. It really helped doing that. I feel that if I had someone who used my unit exclusively, and they helped me, I could really get a lot better. All the same, practice should really help too.

As far as sensitivity though, what would you reccomend for a general, "learning" setting? As of now, I leave it on "Auot Sensitivity" because I don't understand sensitivity enough to really customize my options.

Thanks to all for the help though.

-NBB 

[Bender]

Hudson would be a tough place to learn with it since it is so shallow. I leave my sensitivity on Auto and then adjust it to add or take away an "offset". If it loses bottom or is marking way too much clutter then I turn it down, but if I don't see much of anything I turn it up until there is a lot of clutter and then back it off a little. I've had very limited success actually seeing a fish on there and then catching it, mainly I just use it for depth and structure. I think I need a lot more practice too.

[motocross269]

I just read a good article on this in one of my Bass pubs...I can't remember which one...anyway
The Lowrance expert(engineer/tech) reccommended running on Auto..He claims that alot of the pros reccomendations for changing sensitivity and ping speed where unfounded and did more harm than good..Rev's reccomendations for zooming in where spot on..If you can't get back to the factory settings you can do a soft reset...
He claimed that you can damage your transducer by increasing ping spead.
I fished with Jared Rhode at the Lake Eerie BFL..He was incredible at reading his sonar graph, vertically drop shotting and catching a fish...He would call it out like a video game.."Oop here comes one..he is looking at my DS...He is going for it...Bam got him"...just like that, simply incredible...Even more amazing is he was using a smaller screen 520 to accomplish that..
I wish I would have put my rod down just to go watch him do that from the front deck, I might have learned a thing or two...I got my butt kicked anyway..

Also remember the fish won't give the appearance of arches unless you are moving..

[Ryan]

Moto,
That article was in the last issue of Bassmaster, or maybe the second to last issue.  Either way, that article had a couple of really good tips in it. The Lowrance guy also talked about transducers and touched on several other topics.

-Ryan

[MBell]

What moto is talking about with jared rhode is pretty amazing when you see it for yourself.  The older units are just not capable of producing that kind of detail in real time.  It has nothing to do with the display or sensativity, just how accurate and fast the new units process data from the transducer.  Just watch one of the bassmasters shows from lake erie buffalo,  everyone in the top 12 cut was fishing off their electronics in deep water.  Another show was lake of the ozarks bassmasters a few years ago when Jon Bondy made the cut.  These guys were watching their drop shots on the screen and watching the archs move toward them.  As much as I don't want to spend the cash, I'll have to buy another unit for the front.
-Matt   

[Revtro]

NBB, I'm using a Lowrance LMS-480.  With some minor exceptions, it's the same unit as the Eagle 480.  I'll take a look at my settings and give you an idea of what I found to be decent settings.  I think I have my sensitivity around 80% or so and only have it set to reduce surface clutter and no other clutter reduction.

[Northern Bass Bum]

Thanks for all the information guys! Really neat about catching fish marked on he graph too.

Bender,

You said you leave sensitivity on Auto, but then adjust to offset it. I thought when you adjust, it just adjusts for a second or so, then goes back to whatever Auto-Sensitivity tells it too. When you adjusted it during Auto, it sticks to what you set it at?

Thanks for all the help though guys!

-NBB 

[Langer]

Rev,

I have a pair of 480's and would be interested in hearing your settings as well.

Thanks!

[Bender]

Dane, The 2 units I have work a little differently for some reason. The console one actually shows "offset" and the bow one shows the sensitivity bar floating around when it changes itself in auto but the arrow up/down keys do seem to change it. They both still lose bottom, with the front one the worst but I am getting closer to getting them to work playing with Surface Clarity and Noise Rejection.
Is the Colorline the same as the Grayline? I've never tried to play with that.

[Northern Bass Bum]

Chris,

On B&W units, Grayline helps to distinguish the density of objects. It paints gray on hardr objects which get a strong return echo, and black or dark gray on softer, less dense objects like fish, weeds, bottom composition, etc.

Not sure about "Colorline", but the Grayline seems like a great feature should I ever figure it out. "Colorline" is the same as B&W units, just uses color instead of gray to "paint" objects. Your Owners Manual should probably say what red, blue, and yellow distinguish.

-NBB 

[Bender]

Thanks for the tips. It may not matter too much soon, I'm about ready to throw all of them in the trash. Including the ones in the boat now, I have gone through 7 Sonar/GPS units this year! Lowrance keeps sending me new ones to fix the old ones for free, but it is frustrating! I spent better than half the night tonight with the bottom lost, and although I know the lake very well it is tough to fish in the dark without knowing exactly what depth I am in. 

[MBell]

Bender, What unit are you having so many problems with?  I have a 334c that has some problems but I've figured them out and how to deal with them.  I'm looking at a 520 for the bow, it's the same unit just new so I figured the problems would be gone.  I may just deal with another 334c if the new ones have problems anyways, they are also half the price.
-Matt

[motocross269]

Bender I have been having the same problems with my LCX28c...I have gone through 4 units this year, I call them and they just send me a new one..Why do I get the feeling that all of these head units are just being rotated through the system..? My LCX 28 console unit has worked flawless for over a year, I have spent all summer trying to get one in the bow to work right..I just got another new unit a few weeks ago and this one seems to work fine..
To be honest I think they changed something in the software and it is causing issues.  I have talked to quite a few guys at tournaments that are having the exact same issues.
Linda Colt at lowrance has been great, but I am tired of reloading way points..

[Revtro]

Rev,

I have a pair of 480's and would be interested in hearing your settings as well.

Thanks!

I'll be out in the morning and I'll take a look.  I'm pretty sure my sensitivity is up in the 80's, but not totally positive.

[Revtro]

Man, I feel bad for you guys having so many problems with the Lowrance units.  Honestly, I've had the 480 for a long time now and never had a problem with it.  I had some issues with an older x-71, but no problems with my x-96.  Generally they've been pretty reliable but hearing all the horror stories makes me consider a different brand when the time comes.  So far, I've hear real good things about the Humminbird side finder units.  Maybe some day when Ed McMahon shows up at my door with the big prize, I'll go out and get one of those.